BIRDING BONANZA in St. Francisville, Louisiana From backyard bushes to big bald cypress knee-deep in floodwaters, birdwatching is all the rage by Anne Butler Birding on Plantations The state of Louisiana, with its unspoiled forested areas, cypress swamps and coastal marshes, offers unparalleled birding opportunities for enthusiasts throughout the year, especially during those periods when it provides a prime resting spot along migratory routes from cooler northern climes to more temperate winter homes in the southern tropics and then back again. There are more than a dozen state festivals as well as several designated trails centering around birdwatching, testament to the state’s responsiveness to statistics showing that the nation’s affluent birders spend over $30 billion each year and can be a real boost to tourism and all facets of the hospitality industry, according to the US Fish and Wildlife Service. Prothonotary Warbler Birdwatching, in fact, has been called the second fastest growing outdoor activity in the country, and its enthusiasts have been in the forefront in preserving unique habitat areas like Cat Island National Wildlife Refuge. For years, urban sprawl and rapid economic development endangered prime wildlife habitat, but Louisiana and other states have begun to recognize, as an editorial in Baton Rouge’s newspaper proclaimed, that conserving birdlife and making money aren’t necessarily mutually exclusive. Nowhere has this philosphy been embraced more enthusiastically than St. Francisville, Louisiana, just north of Baton Rouge on the Mississippi River, where this year marks the fourth annual Audubon Country BirdFest. The first weekend in April brings birders and outdoor enthusiasts in boots and binoculars to scenic West Feliciana Parish for an event perfectly suited to this part of Louisiana called Audubon Country. With habitat areas ranging from the hilly loessial bluffs and steep shady ravines of the uplands to the swampy river bottomlands with hardwood forests seasonally flooded by the Mississippi River in the absence of levees, the parish has had a rich and thriving bird population, both resident and migratory, ever since the famous artist-naturalist John James Audubon painted so many of his Birds of America studies there in 1821. Birders leaving on a field trip. Scheduled for April 1 through 3, the Audubon Country BirdFest offers beginning and advanced birding, with transportation provided, through historic plantations and antebellum gardens with such evocative names as Live Oak, The Oaks, Wyoming, Rosedown, Afton Villa and Ouida. Other field trips feature spectacular preserved wilderness areas like the series of waterfalls in the Clark Creek Natural Area and the new Cat Island National Wildlife Refuge, a heartwarming example of private and governmental cooperation in conserving significant natural resources. Canoes and life jackets will be provided if the Mississippi River is "up," because Cat Island is one of the largest tracts of virgin wetland forest along the Mississippi not protected by levees from cyclical flooding. Sometimes inundated by 15 to 20 feet of water in the spring, the wildlife refuge provides ideal habitat for huge populations of wintering waterfowl and is home to the world’s largest Bald Cypress tree, believed to be between 800 and 1500 years old and an astounding 83 feet tall.  Raptors at the BirdFest History and hiking, canoeing and conservation are all part of the BirdFest weekend put together by the Feliciana Nature Society, with activities geared to every age and interest level. Birding tours and field trips are led by recognized experts through areas rich in the flora and fauna for which West Feliciana is famous. The wonderful wildlife artist Murrell Butler personally conducts the bird walks through his own property, Oak Hill, and as usual he has painted this year's fund-raising limited edition print of a pair of spectacular Painted Buntings. For novice birders or those not up to a strenuous field trip, some of the trips are rated for beginners, including one excursion that promises interesting sightings right in the middle of St. Francisville's oak-shaded National Register-listed Historic District and along the Mississippi River. Other field trips include historic home tours, and the Asphodel visit combines birds with bugs to take advantage of the expertise of the current owner of that antebellum plantation. Special hands-on nature activities and games designed to appeal especially to youngsters are offered at Audubon State Historic Site. The famed artist-naturalist John James Audubon arrived in St. Francisville by steamboat in 1821, penniless and with a string of failed business ventures behind him, but rich in talent and dreams, having set for himself the staggering task of painting all of the birds of the immense fledgling country. Hired to tutor the beautiful young daughter of Oakley Plantation, now preserved as Audubon State Historic Site, he was allowed his afternoons free to roam the woods, sketching and collecting specimens, painting a large number of his famous bird studies and cutting quite a dashing figure with his long flowing locks, frilly shirts and satin breeches.  Birdwatchers in Felicianas Field trips and tours are scheduled Friday afternoon, all day Saturday, and Sunday morning. On Friday evening, the opening social takes place in Jackson Hall next to historic Grace Episcopal Church, with the eminent landscape expert Neil Odenwald discussing how to attract birds to southern gardens.. BirdFest headquarters are the St. Francisville Inn next to Parker Park, right in the heart of historic downtown St. Francisville; all tours originate there, and participants may register at headquarters or in advance (telephone 800-488-6502, mail P.O. Box 2866, St. Francisville, LA 70775, e-mail staff@audubonbirdfest.com). Detailed online information is available at www.audubonbirdfest.com; since each birding tour is limited to 20 participants, signing up in advance is a good idea. A large tally board recording bird sightings is located in the park, site of exhibits, artists, demonstrations, children's activities and nature-related vendors. Cautious Heron. The St. Francisville area offers excellent birding opportunities throughout the year, especially in the springtime. In the summer, the Feliciana Hummingbird Celebration (July 29 and 30, 2005) centers around the large numbers of these colorful little birds at several sites near St. Francisville, with banding and other activities. Rosedown State Historic Site also offers periodic guided bird walks through its antebellum gardens and extensive grounds, and nationally recognized bird artist Murrell Butler conducts guided birding tours year-round. In the St. Francisville area, there are six antebellum plantations open for daily tours: Rosedown and Audubon State Historic Sites, The Myrtles, Greenwood, Butler Greenwood and The Cottage; Catalpa is open part-time, and Afton Villa Gardens opens seasonally, with spring usually the peak of its blooming season. Picturesque 19th-century structures throughout downtown St. Francisville are filled with an eclectic selection of little shops, and reasonably priced meals are available in a nice array of restaurants. Some of the state's best Bed and Breakfasts offer overnight accommodations ranging from golf clubs and lakeside resorts to historic townhouses and country plantations; a modern motel has facilities to accommodate busloads. Recreational opportunities abound in the Tunica Hills, with excellent hiking, biking, hunting, fishing, golfing and horseback riding, in addition to the superb birdwatching. For online coverage of tourist facilities and attractions in the St. Francisville area, see www.stfrancisville.us, www.stfrancisville.net, or www.stfrancisvilleovernight.com; or telephone (225) 635-3873 or 635-6330.  For high resolution photographs for media use, please email PHOTOS ; by Patrick Walsh.